Clare, a retired painter, says: ‘Don’t get me wrong, girls, half the time I’m bored witless.’ We’ve met over a glass of wine (our first, her fifth) in Ullapool, an arty spot deep in the Scottish Highlands. ‘Then I look out of the window and remember I wouldn’t want to be anywhere else.’ Clare’s hand sweeps across the landscape as she explains why she left London and relocated to this wild, rural place.
It’s the first lengthy conversation my friend, Phoebe, and I have had with anyone but each other in nine days. You can go for miles across the Highlands without meeting a soul. We have been looking out of the window a lot, too.
Having travelled the globe — even as far as New Zealand — in search of life-affirming landscapes, we discover it can all be found up the road (and on the road). In Scotland. And to experience it in autumn is an added bonus.
Super sight: Views of Ullapool harbour on Loch Broom in the northwest of Scotland
We are driving up the western shores, often…
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